Shelter, Protection, and Bedding
No matter the emergency situation, it is important to keep ourselves and our families safe and protected from the elements, including: rain, wind, snow, fog, sun, heat and lightening. We may need to find our protection out in the elements, or in our own home. There are many ways to keep us sheltered.
Be aware of you surroundings. If possible, your home can be a shelter. In a disaster situation, debris from homes and buildings (walls, doors, concrete, furniture etc.) can be used. In the winter, snow caves or ditches can create an environment up to 20 degrees warmer than the outside air. Branches, limbs, and leaves can be used to protect from wind, rain, or sun. Large rocks and cliffs can provide small areas of safety.
Tents: Tents can provide a safe place out of the wind and rain. Tents are mobile and can be set up in your own yard, far away from the rubble, or in or near shelter. Find a tent that is the right size for you and your family. Keep in mind a dome tent that does not need to be staked into the ground can be set up indoors to provide privacy for your family in a public place. Make sure you know how to set up the tent before you are required to us it.
Tarps: This can be a heavy ground cloth, plastic sheeting or tarp. A tarp can be used to provide overhead shade, a tent, a lean-to, ground covering, waterproofing. A tarp with grommets (small reinforced holes) and a rope can be tied to trees, buildings, etc.
Garbage bags, rain ponchos, emergency blankets: These can be used to block wind, or wrapped around the body to keep out moisture.
Bedding
No matter what kind of bedding you use, chose something that will keep you warm and dry, can be mobile, and waterproof if possible.
Just as important as what you sleep in, is what you sleep on. 75% of the cold comes from the ground. There are many things you can use to insulate you from the cold ground.
Mattress or Sleeping Pad: A commercial foam pad or self inflating mattress will provide comfort and insulation.
Ground Cloth or Tarp: Ground cloths and tarps won't insulate very much, but will keep out the moisture.
Other items: Leaves, Magazines, Newspaper, Cardboard, Tree bark and branches will all insulate you from the cold ground.
There are a few options of what to sleep in. Choose what works for you and what you have or are willing to purchase.
Sleeping Bag: Sleeping bags are compact, and will keep you warm. Store them next to your kit, or attach them to your pack with chord, rope or bungees.
Bed Roll: See attached instructions for making a bedroll below.
Other: Dress warm and wrap in a tarp or garbage bag. Or wrap up in an emergency blanket or pouch that will reflect you body heat back to you.
Always make sure you go do bed warm and dry. Put on dry clothes, including undergarments before bed.
Bedroll Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Things You'll Need:
• Large waterproof cover
• As many blankets as desired
• Sleeping blanket or sheet
• Ropes
Step1
Place the waterproof material flat on the ground. Then put the first blanket over the top so it is covering two-thirds of the waterproof cover.
Step2
Place the second blanket over the first, lining its edge at the middle of the first blanket.
Step3
If any additional blankets are desired, continue to place them in the same arrangement as the first two, alternating positions.
Step4
Fold the sheet or sleeping blanket in half and place it in the middle of the bedroll.
Step5
Starting with the last blanket you put down, fold the blankets one at a time over the sleeping blanket or sheet.
Step6
Fold the waterproof covering over the blankets. To get into your bedroll, enter from the top, into the middle and you should be in the sleeping blanket or sheet.
Step7
When you are packing up your bedroll for camping, place your nightclothes and needed toiletries in the middle inside the bedroll.
Step8
Begin to roll from the bottom, until you have a tight roll, then tie it off by using the ropes on at least the two ends and possibly a third in the middle to keep everything together and tight.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
September 2008
Hi Preparedness Group,
Here are the notes from our last class on Shelter, Protection & Bedding, including how to make the good old fashioned "bed roll".
Thanks to the April & Blake for teaching the class. They did a great job!
Our goal this month:
Gather your shelter and bedding materials (such as tents, pads and sleeping bags) for each family member and have handy next to your 72 hour kits.
Our next class on Oct 21st will be on "Sanitation, Personal Care and Special Needs" and will be taught by Janna.
Debbie
Here are the notes from our last class on Shelter, Protection & Bedding, including how to make the good old fashioned "bed roll".
Thanks to the April & Blake for teaching the class. They did a great job!
Our goal this month:
Gather your shelter and bedding materials (such as tents, pads and sleeping bags) for each family member and have handy next to your 72 hour kits.
Our next class on Oct 21st will be on "Sanitation, Personal Care and Special Needs" and will be taught by Janna.
Debbie
Clothing, Fuel and Warmth
Clothing
There are three things that clothing must do to protect the body: insulate the body against the cold; provide proper ventilation to keep the body dry; and protect the body against the elements.
Layering clothing contributes to regulating the body’s temperature and is most effective in keeping warm and dry. Keep multiple layers on when the body is not active, such as resting or sleeping; take off layers as necessary to keep from sweating when active. Sweating in cold weather will increase your chances of hypothermia because the moisture will stay close to you as your clothes absorb it and will inhibit their effectiveness in keeping you warm. Wet clothing loses up to 90% of its ability to retain heat. Also keep your head covered to retain body heat: up to 90% of your body heat can be lost through your head.
In the heat, use cotton as it retains water the longest and can aid in keeping your body cool. Also keep your skin covered: exposed arms and legs in extreme heat, combined with heavy activity, can lead to heat exhaustion and even heat stroke. Clothes that are loose-fitting and cover the body are the best defense against heat: think pioneer clothing (long sleeves, wide-brim hat, etc).
Types of Material
Cotton is the most popular type of clothing material. It retains water and is useful for cooling in the summer. Be careful using this material next to the skin during cold weather, however, as its water retaining capability contributes to loss of body heat.
Synthetic materials are used by many sports and outdoor specialists due to their ability to wick moisture away from the skin. This is useful in both hot and cold weather (as long as the moisture is allowed to evaporate without cause loss of body heat in winter).
Down-filled garments are especially warm and can be compacted to small spaces for storage. A down vest would be a great intermediate layer for cold weather. The disadvantage of down occurs if the garment gets wet: it loses most of its ability to insulate. A waterproof outer-shell is essential to keeping the garment useful.
Wool is a great insulator and can retain its insulation qualities even when wet. Modern synthetic-wool blend is a great material for socks, which help feet stay dry and warm in cold weather and dry and cool in hot weather. These socks can be purchased at outdoor and athletic stores.
Using Clothing in 72hr Kits
Clothing is a great void-filler. When packing your kit, keep similar items of clothes together (socks, underwear, etc) in gallon size Ziploc freezer bags with the air squeezed out of them. These bags will keep your clothing dry (absolutely essential) and allow you to fill any voids in your backpack or other container to spread out the load of your kit.
Keep your clothing rotated through your kit appropriate to the season: warm for winter (layers), cool for summer. Other items to include might be sunglasses; extra eye-glasses; rain gear; sturdy, worn in shoes; leather work gloves; bandana; hat; and large trash bags (for impromptu rain cover).
Fuel and Warmth
Keeping dry and warm are the most important things to do in any survival situation.
You may have to make a fire and there are several options you have in starting one. Matches are good to have in your kit but they must be waterproofed or kept in a waterproof container. There are “storm-proof” and “hurricane” matches which are designed to stay lit, so if you use them, remember to dispose of them properly—pitching one when it is still lit may have Smokey the Bear right on your tail. Birthday candles can be used if a flame is needed for more than a few seconds. Matches can be water-proofed by dipping the heads in candle fat or with nail polish—be sure to include the strike plate the matches come with on the side of the box so you can light them. Butane lighters also work, but use only the durable, metal kind. Cheap plastic lighter can break in your kit and soak things with butane, not a pleasant experience!
Another item you can use to start a fire is the flint and steel trick: practice before you have to use them, they do take a little getting used to. Use cotton balls coated lightly with Vaseline to light with a spark—the Vaseline burns long and is a great heat source to get kindling going for your fire.
Steel wool can be lit using a nine-volt battery—just touch the positive and negative terminals to the steel wool and viola, instant sparks! However, this method takes some practice in getting the tinder and kindling started from the burning steel wool. Practice what you will be doing so you know that you can do it when needed! Many ideas are clever and sound great, but when it comes to making use of them, they may not be practical or even doable. Don’t use any equipment in your survival kit that you have not already tried and proven.
Chemical hand warmers are available at outdoor stores. Small backpacking stoves are a great way to boil water for cooking and drinking if called for and are easy to transport. Other ideas can be found in the Boy Scout Handbook and Fieldbook.
One other note on fuel: It is a good idea to store enough fuel for your vehicle to travel to your place of safety. For instance, if the Barnard’s had to flee Wichita they would plan on having enough fuel stored to travel to family in Salt Lake City (or wherever you will go). Storing gasoline must be done properly or it can be dangerous. Use only DOT approved containers and store in a shed apart from the house instead of a connected garage. Gasoline containers occasionally vent fumes when warmed in the summer and you don’t want those fumes near your house. Also, use fuel stabilizer to keep fuel from gelling. Gasoline is a mixture and if left to sit for more than sixty days or so it begins to separate. Fuel stabilizer can keep fuel good for more than a year. However, it is recommended that in addition to using stabilizer for your fuel supply, rotate it through by using it for your lawn mower or something similar so that you do not let it sit for years without using it.
Outdoor Skills Resources (can be purchased at outdoor stores like Sportsman’s Warehouse and Gander Mountain)
Allen and Mike’s Really Cool Backpacking Book, by Allen O’Bannon and Mike Clelland, 2001, Globe Pequot Press (entertaining book on backpacking tips, very useful for trimming unnecessary weight from 72hr kit-type containers)
National Outdoor Leadership School’s Wilderness Guide, by Mike Harvey, 1999, Simon & Schuster
There are three things that clothing must do to protect the body: insulate the body against the cold; provide proper ventilation to keep the body dry; and protect the body against the elements.
Layering clothing contributes to regulating the body’s temperature and is most effective in keeping warm and dry. Keep multiple layers on when the body is not active, such as resting or sleeping; take off layers as necessary to keep from sweating when active. Sweating in cold weather will increase your chances of hypothermia because the moisture will stay close to you as your clothes absorb it and will inhibit their effectiveness in keeping you warm. Wet clothing loses up to 90% of its ability to retain heat. Also keep your head covered to retain body heat: up to 90% of your body heat can be lost through your head.
In the heat, use cotton as it retains water the longest and can aid in keeping your body cool. Also keep your skin covered: exposed arms and legs in extreme heat, combined with heavy activity, can lead to heat exhaustion and even heat stroke. Clothes that are loose-fitting and cover the body are the best defense against heat: think pioneer clothing (long sleeves, wide-brim hat, etc).
Types of Material
Cotton is the most popular type of clothing material. It retains water and is useful for cooling in the summer. Be careful using this material next to the skin during cold weather, however, as its water retaining capability contributes to loss of body heat.
Synthetic materials are used by many sports and outdoor specialists due to their ability to wick moisture away from the skin. This is useful in both hot and cold weather (as long as the moisture is allowed to evaporate without cause loss of body heat in winter).
Down-filled garments are especially warm and can be compacted to small spaces for storage. A down vest would be a great intermediate layer for cold weather. The disadvantage of down occurs if the garment gets wet: it loses most of its ability to insulate. A waterproof outer-shell is essential to keeping the garment useful.
Wool is a great insulator and can retain its insulation qualities even when wet. Modern synthetic-wool blend is a great material for socks, which help feet stay dry and warm in cold weather and dry and cool in hot weather. These socks can be purchased at outdoor and athletic stores.
Using Clothing in 72hr Kits
Clothing is a great void-filler. When packing your kit, keep similar items of clothes together (socks, underwear, etc) in gallon size Ziploc freezer bags with the air squeezed out of them. These bags will keep your clothing dry (absolutely essential) and allow you to fill any voids in your backpack or other container to spread out the load of your kit.
Keep your clothing rotated through your kit appropriate to the season: warm for winter (layers), cool for summer. Other items to include might be sunglasses; extra eye-glasses; rain gear; sturdy, worn in shoes; leather work gloves; bandana; hat; and large trash bags (for impromptu rain cover).
Fuel and Warmth
Keeping dry and warm are the most important things to do in any survival situation.
You may have to make a fire and there are several options you have in starting one. Matches are good to have in your kit but they must be waterproofed or kept in a waterproof container. There are “storm-proof” and “hurricane” matches which are designed to stay lit, so if you use them, remember to dispose of them properly—pitching one when it is still lit may have Smokey the Bear right on your tail. Birthday candles can be used if a flame is needed for more than a few seconds. Matches can be water-proofed by dipping the heads in candle fat or with nail polish—be sure to include the strike plate the matches come with on the side of the box so you can light them. Butane lighters also work, but use only the durable, metal kind. Cheap plastic lighter can break in your kit and soak things with butane, not a pleasant experience!
Another item you can use to start a fire is the flint and steel trick: practice before you have to use them, they do take a little getting used to. Use cotton balls coated lightly with Vaseline to light with a spark—the Vaseline burns long and is a great heat source to get kindling going for your fire.
Steel wool can be lit using a nine-volt battery—just touch the positive and negative terminals to the steel wool and viola, instant sparks! However, this method takes some practice in getting the tinder and kindling started from the burning steel wool. Practice what you will be doing so you know that you can do it when needed! Many ideas are clever and sound great, but when it comes to making use of them, they may not be practical or even doable. Don’t use any equipment in your survival kit that you have not already tried and proven.
Chemical hand warmers are available at outdoor stores. Small backpacking stoves are a great way to boil water for cooking and drinking if called for and are easy to transport. Other ideas can be found in the Boy Scout Handbook and Fieldbook.
One other note on fuel: It is a good idea to store enough fuel for your vehicle to travel to your place of safety. For instance, if the Barnard’s had to flee Wichita they would plan on having enough fuel stored to travel to family in Salt Lake City (or wherever you will go). Storing gasoline must be done properly or it can be dangerous. Use only DOT approved containers and store in a shed apart from the house instead of a connected garage. Gasoline containers occasionally vent fumes when warmed in the summer and you don’t want those fumes near your house. Also, use fuel stabilizer to keep fuel from gelling. Gasoline is a mixture and if left to sit for more than sixty days or so it begins to separate. Fuel stabilizer can keep fuel good for more than a year. However, it is recommended that in addition to using stabilizer for your fuel supply, rotate it through by using it for your lawn mower or something similar so that you do not let it sit for years without using it.
Outdoor Skills Resources (can be purchased at outdoor stores like Sportsman’s Warehouse and Gander Mountain)
Allen and Mike’s Really Cool Backpacking Book, by Allen O’Bannon and Mike Clelland, 2001, Globe Pequot Press (entertaining book on backpacking tips, very useful for trimming unnecessary weight from 72hr kit-type containers)
National Outdoor Leadership School’s Wilderness Guide, by Mike Harvey, 1999, Simon & Schuster
August 2008
Hi everyone,
Attached are the notes from the last class on Clothing, Fuel & Warmth presented by the Barnards.
Our goal for this month:
Gather clothing and needed supplies for warmth and fuel for your emergency kits.
Thanks!
Debbie
Attached are the notes from the last class on Clothing, Fuel & Warmth presented by the Barnards.
Our goal for this month:
Gather clothing and needed supplies for warmth and fuel for your emergency kits.
Thanks!
Debbie
Light and Communication
LIGHT
It is vital during a power outage to have an alternative source of lighting. It is best to have a combination of light sources in the home and in your emergency kit (e.g. flashlights & lanterns). Obviously, for safety reasons, battery operated lights are preferred over lanterns and candles. However, lanterns and candles may be helpful during an extended power outage. Take the time to practice using your various light sources so that you can see the realities of using them before the emergency comes.
1. Flashlights –
Waterproof, Heavy-duty flashlights: Keep flashlights and extra batteries and bulbs in your Emergency kit, First-aid Kits and in all areas of your home. Store batteries separately from the flashlights. Pack flashlights at the top of your 72-hour kit. Note that LED flashlights are a great choice for emergency kits because they are 70% more efficient than regular flashlights. The batteries in an LED flashlight will last 10x longer and there are no fragile parts to break (as with regular bulbs). It is recommended to replenish your kit with fresh batteries every 6 mo.
Other: Head-lamp Flashlights (great for hands free lighting) & Hand-crank Flashlights (just need extra bulbs).
Emergency Power-failure Lights – keep these plugged into an electrical outlet where they keep charged. When the power goes out, these lights automatically switch on and provide several hours of back-up lighting. They can be used to light up hallways, bedrooms, bathrooms, exits, and circuit breakers or fuse box areas. They can also double as a portable flashlight.
2. Batteries –
Store plenty of extra alkaline batteries for your flashlight, transistor radio, and any other items in your emergency kit that is battery operated. Alkaline batteries will give about 10 hours of continuous light. They have a 3-5 year shelf life if stored in a cool location in an airtight container. They provide a much longer shelf life than carbon-zinc batteries. They retain 90% of their power after 4 years (if unused) and 85% after 5 years of storage. (Lithium batteries are more expensive but have twice as long a shelf life of 10 years and can operate in extreme cold). Always store batteries near but separate from your flashlights or radios in their original packaging in a re-closable plastic bag. This prevents leaky batteries from damaging equipment.
3. Bulbs – Be sure to keep a couple of spare bulbs on hand for your flashlights.
4. Chemical Light Sticks –
Light from light sticks generally last 8-10 hours with the first 30 minutes being the brightest and most useful. These can help you to see in the dark as well as provide the psychological benefit of having light. They are the best light to use if there is danger of a gas leak (no sparks). They are flameless, non-toxic, cool, windproof and waterproof. They provide 360 degree light visible up to a mile away. They float on water and can be seen through smoke and underwater. Store several of these light sticks for each member of the family in your emergency kits, first-aid kits and in your home and car, but not as the sole source of light. Also include flashlights. Shelf life is about 2-3 years (from the date of manufacture) if kept sealed in the foil wrapper.
Uses: general lighting, traffic control, road safety, changing tires at night, reading maps at night, distress signals, roadside car accidents, building search and evacuation, medical triage & victim identification, checking circuit breakers or fuse boxes, used as a “night light” in children’s rooms, etc.
5. Candles & Candle Lanterns – for extra long power outages (but not where there could be a gas leak).
Candle Lantern with Carrying Handle – Safest holder for candles. The enclosed lanterns are wind-proof, water resistant and less likely to ignite surroundings if knocked over. Remember to store plenty of extra candles & waterproof matches.
Non-enclosed Candles – Make sure there is a broad base on the candle holder (small solid holders are best) and keep away from furnaces, gas appliances, children and combustible materials! White or light-colored candles burn brighter than dark candles. Small utility or camping candles are better than long dinner candles.
Liquid 100-hr Candles – come in cans; odorless & smokeless; uses liquid paraffin. They provide 100 hours of light and heat. If tipped over, most types extinguish the flame for an extra measure of safety.
Other Candle Notes: Tallow candles (contain animal fat) burn brighter, longer, and are fairly smoke free compared to wax candles). Candles burn more slowly & evenly with minimum wax drippings if placed in the freezer for several hours before using them. You can increase the light of candles by placing a piece of aluminum foil or mirror reflector behind the candle or by placing the candle in front of a mirror. It also helps to place the lantern on a light-colored surface. Do not let children carry fuel, lanterns or lighted candles. Candle snuffers are helpful to put out a candle quickly, safely & completely.
SAFETY: Never go to sleep with any unvented burning device in your home. Always crack a window open in the vicinity of the burning device such as a candle, lantern or kerosene stove or heater. Also, keep a battery-operated carbon-monoxide detector in working order nearby where open flames from heating devices are used and a fire extinguisher handy.
6. Battery-Powered or Fuel Lanterns and Lamps –
Fluorescent Lanterns (Battery Powered) – Very safe; Provide light for 24-86 hrs depending upon the size and quantity of the batteries. They burn brighter & longer than flashlights, but are also larger and weigh more. (Note: Due to the cold, they may not light at all in temperatures below 20 degrees.)
Back-packing or camp Lanterns (Liquid Fuel) – compact, collapsible & lightweight. Try to find one that uses kerosene (the safest fuel).
Kerosene (Hurricane) Lanterns – Perfect for home or outdoor use. They are an excellent source of light and will burn for about 45 hours on a quart of fuel. They burn bright and are inexpensive to operate. The main problem is failure to trim the wick correctly. Wicks should be trimmed in an arch, a “V” or “A” or straight across the top. Failing to properly trim the wick and maintain them results in smoke and poor light. To avoid a kerosene odor, light and extinguish a kerosene lantern outdoors. Light can be dimmed or brightened using the adjustable wick. Keep extra wicks and plenty of kerosene oil or lamp oil on hand.
Mantle Oil Lamps – For indoor use; They use kerosene or lamp oil.
Coleman Kerosene Lantern – For outdoor use -- safer and less expensive to operate than propane lanterns. They have a 5 1/2 hour burn time on one 32-ounce filling of kerosene. Puts out as much light as a 300 Watt electric light bulb. (Prices run $75 - $95).
Solar Lanterns – provide light on a full charge (8 hours of sunlight)
SAFETY: Always fill lanterns with fuel outside. Never use propane or white gas indoors. Never use car fuel. Read the instructions with your lantern to know where it may be safely used. Light all cooking, heating and lighting equipment preferably outdoors or by a window that is open several inches. Never use camping stoves or burning lights in a closed room.
7. Other Supplies
Fire Extinguishers – Having several ABC all purpose type fire extinguishers are essential, especially when alternative sources of heat and light are being used.
Carbon-Monoxide Detectors (Battery-operated) – Very important. Have at least two of these detectors in your home, especially near heating sources such as your water heater and wood stove or fireplace.
Smoke Detectors – Have at least 2 battery-operated smoke detectors in your home placed on each separate level of your home. Store extra batteries for them and check them twice a year.
Lamp or Lantern Fuel
Extra lamp & lighting supplies: Wicks, chimneys, matches, etc.
Emergency Road Flares – keep several on hand in your car.
Extra Fuses ( if your home has a fuse box)
Instructions and a crescent wrench – to safely turn of your gas, power and water if needed or directed to do so.
Communication
Communication is your contact with the outside world and is vitally important to you and your family’s safety during and after a disaster. During a developing emergency, keep a radio or TV on and await instructions. After disasters, the media serve as invaluable information centers for rumor control, announcements, etc. In time of disaster don’t believe and pass on rumors -- depend on the radio or TV for your information.
Radios
Ø **Battery-Powered Radio, AM/FM (with earplug or headphone) – important for info. & for morale; some can also pick up TV channels; Some available with 4-way power: solar power, alternate wind-up electric power; battery power & DC back-up power; Using headphones or earplug conserves battery power (by not having to power the speakers). Keep radio near the top of your 72 hour kit.
Ø **Extra Radio Batteries (alkaline)
Ø Weather Radio – Gives continuous weather info.
Ø Other: Car radio; 10-band short-wave radios (picks up broadcasts all over the world); Amateur or Ham Radio; Two-way Radios (range of up to 2 miles; help keep communication when family members are separated; no license required; runs on 3 AA batteries; 38 hrs of talk time); Walkie-talkies; CB Radio (portable, with car lighter adapter cord; Channel 19 is the emergency frequency; range 5-20 miles); Small battery powered TV (gives a much better visual understanding of the emergency at hand, however these TV’s will NOT work after Feb 2009 unless you have a digital portable TV. See attached article.); Portable Laptop; Cell phones with TV channels.
Maps
**Road Maps, Compass, & Community Maps (Get out of the phone book or from local Chamber of Commerce) – Mark location of potential hazards, evacuation routes, best walking routes to public emergency shelters, family meeting place, children’s schools, church, hospitals, fire and police departments, relatives and friends who live out of the area you could stay with after an evacuation; Make sure each family member is familiar with the map and important community locations.
**Family Disaster Action Plan – Have a predetermined action plan and an alternate plan to re-unite your family at a central location or meeting point in case family members are separated during an emergency. These points may be your own home (unless you are not allowed to go back to your home after a disaster), neighbors (such as with a fire), friends, relatives, Red Cross shelters, community or recreational centers, schools, parks, churches, etc. Go over the plan with your family. Make sure younger family members know how to get there. (Remember that messages can be left at some locations to help inform family members who arrive later.) Include important addresses and phone numbers (such as your out-of-area contact person) and recent photos of your family to help with locating missing persons. Decide how you will communicate with each other in an emergency. Keep a copy of this disaster plan in each person’s 72 hour kit, at work, and in the children’s school backpacks. Attach maps to the disaster plan. Also be sure that each person carries ID on them – wallet cards, dog tags, etc. with name, address & phone number.
Phones & Internet
Cell Phones – include recharger and a car cell phone charger (keep this in the car); Often during an emergency, cell phones get completely tied up but you can still get through on outgoing out-of-state calls. This is where the outside contact becomes very important. Also remember to include an “ICE” (In Case of Emergency) name & phone number on your cell phone under your “contact list” should you be injured and someone finds you. Don’t forget that texting will sometimes work even when phone calls can’t go through. (This was especially true during the recent earthquake in China).
Internet – Internet and email may be possible during an emergency as long as the phone lines are intact at both ends and power (or back-up battery power) continues to keep the computer running.
Pre-Paid Phone Cards –Hev in each 72 hour emergency kit. (Be sure there is no expiration date that the card must be used up by.)
Pay Phones – If you have no coins, you can get help by calling the toll-free numbers: 1-800-OPERATOR or 1-800-COLLECT; To have money wired, call 1-100-CASH.
**Out of Area Contact Person – Establish an out-of-area contact (at least 50 miles away) where family members can both leave and receive messages during or after an emergency. Family members can call this person and report their location and condition. Every family member should know this contact phone number by heart. Be sure to include these important phone numbers on the family Disaster Action Plan sheet described above. And, be sure to let relatives know you are safe after the emergency is over so they don’t come looking for you.
**Phone List - Complete an “Important Phone List” and keep copies in your car and emergency kits. (The list may include: 9-1-1, Fire, poison control, police, animal control, employer, attorney, bank, hospitals, cell phone numbers, doctors, church leaders, friends, close family, community emergency shelter, dentist, daycare center, disaster clean-up company, utility companies, e-mail addresses, employer, home-owner’s insurance agent, Highway Patrol, mechanic, mortgage company, neighbors, out-of-area contact people, pharmacy, plumber, road conditions, roadside help or towing service, schools, phone company, weather conditions/forecast, etc.) Also post emergency phone numbers by every phone in the house! Also keep a card with a list of family contact numbers in your wallet, purse, & children’s school backpacks. Remember that at an evacuation Center there may not be a phone book available and you might not be able to remember phone numbers when under stress.
Procedures for School Children
In an emergency, your children may be sheltered in place or evacuated from school. Do not go to the school. School personnel are trained to handle emergencies. Do not call your children’s school during the emergency – you may tie up lines need for emergency calls. Listen to the Emergency Broadcasts to know when and where to pick up your children.
Signaling Items
Emergency flares (can also double as a fire starter) – use for auto accidents or car problems
Signal Mirror (glass or metal)
Space blanket or emergency blankets – can also be used for signaling with their reflective surface.
Brass whistles with Lanyard – one per person, especially children; whistles carry much further than voices.
Car horn
Car mirror
Use oil under car hood burned in a hubcap to send up a miniature cloud which is visible for miles; Also, a burning tire makes a hot fire and lots of easy-to-see thick black smoke for 3-4 hours.
Remember: The #1 rule of surviving in the wilderness is to stay put. You are much better off spending the time preparing for an overnight or extended stay where you are. Your chance of being found, faster, is much improved if you are not on the move.
** = Very important!!
Goals for this month:
LIGHT: Obtain appropriate light sources for your home and emergency kit & cars (with extra batteries, fuel, lighting supplies, etc.). Also get carbon monoxide alarms & fire extinguishers as needed.
COMMUNICATION: Complete a Family Disaster Plan including maps, a list of important phone numbers, and a meeting place. Establish an out-of-area contact and let them know. Obtain needed communication & signaling devices (such as radios & whistles).
It is vital during a power outage to have an alternative source of lighting. It is best to have a combination of light sources in the home and in your emergency kit (e.g. flashlights & lanterns). Obviously, for safety reasons, battery operated lights are preferred over lanterns and candles. However, lanterns and candles may be helpful during an extended power outage. Take the time to practice using your various light sources so that you can see the realities of using them before the emergency comes.
1. Flashlights –
Waterproof, Heavy-duty flashlights: Keep flashlights and extra batteries and bulbs in your Emergency kit, First-aid Kits and in all areas of your home. Store batteries separately from the flashlights. Pack flashlights at the top of your 72-hour kit. Note that LED flashlights are a great choice for emergency kits because they are 70% more efficient than regular flashlights. The batteries in an LED flashlight will last 10x longer and there are no fragile parts to break (as with regular bulbs). It is recommended to replenish your kit with fresh batteries every 6 mo.
Other: Head-lamp Flashlights (great for hands free lighting) & Hand-crank Flashlights (just need extra bulbs).
Emergency Power-failure Lights – keep these plugged into an electrical outlet where they keep charged. When the power goes out, these lights automatically switch on and provide several hours of back-up lighting. They can be used to light up hallways, bedrooms, bathrooms, exits, and circuit breakers or fuse box areas. They can also double as a portable flashlight.
2. Batteries –
Store plenty of extra alkaline batteries for your flashlight, transistor radio, and any other items in your emergency kit that is battery operated. Alkaline batteries will give about 10 hours of continuous light. They have a 3-5 year shelf life if stored in a cool location in an airtight container. They provide a much longer shelf life than carbon-zinc batteries. They retain 90% of their power after 4 years (if unused) and 85% after 5 years of storage. (Lithium batteries are more expensive but have twice as long a shelf life of 10 years and can operate in extreme cold). Always store batteries near but separate from your flashlights or radios in their original packaging in a re-closable plastic bag. This prevents leaky batteries from damaging equipment.
3. Bulbs – Be sure to keep a couple of spare bulbs on hand for your flashlights.
4. Chemical Light Sticks –
Light from light sticks generally last 8-10 hours with the first 30 minutes being the brightest and most useful. These can help you to see in the dark as well as provide the psychological benefit of having light. They are the best light to use if there is danger of a gas leak (no sparks). They are flameless, non-toxic, cool, windproof and waterproof. They provide 360 degree light visible up to a mile away. They float on water and can be seen through smoke and underwater. Store several of these light sticks for each member of the family in your emergency kits, first-aid kits and in your home and car, but not as the sole source of light. Also include flashlights. Shelf life is about 2-3 years (from the date of manufacture) if kept sealed in the foil wrapper.
Uses: general lighting, traffic control, road safety, changing tires at night, reading maps at night, distress signals, roadside car accidents, building search and evacuation, medical triage & victim identification, checking circuit breakers or fuse boxes, used as a “night light” in children’s rooms, etc.
5. Candles & Candle Lanterns – for extra long power outages (but not where there could be a gas leak).
Candle Lantern with Carrying Handle – Safest holder for candles. The enclosed lanterns are wind-proof, water resistant and less likely to ignite surroundings if knocked over. Remember to store plenty of extra candles & waterproof matches.
Non-enclosed Candles – Make sure there is a broad base on the candle holder (small solid holders are best) and keep away from furnaces, gas appliances, children and combustible materials! White or light-colored candles burn brighter than dark candles. Small utility or camping candles are better than long dinner candles.
Liquid 100-hr Candles – come in cans; odorless & smokeless; uses liquid paraffin. They provide 100 hours of light and heat. If tipped over, most types extinguish the flame for an extra measure of safety.
Other Candle Notes: Tallow candles (contain animal fat) burn brighter, longer, and are fairly smoke free compared to wax candles). Candles burn more slowly & evenly with minimum wax drippings if placed in the freezer for several hours before using them. You can increase the light of candles by placing a piece of aluminum foil or mirror reflector behind the candle or by placing the candle in front of a mirror. It also helps to place the lantern on a light-colored surface. Do not let children carry fuel, lanterns or lighted candles. Candle snuffers are helpful to put out a candle quickly, safely & completely.
SAFETY: Never go to sleep with any unvented burning device in your home. Always crack a window open in the vicinity of the burning device such as a candle, lantern or kerosene stove or heater. Also, keep a battery-operated carbon-monoxide detector in working order nearby where open flames from heating devices are used and a fire extinguisher handy.
6. Battery-Powered or Fuel Lanterns and Lamps –
Fluorescent Lanterns (Battery Powered) – Very safe; Provide light for 24-86 hrs depending upon the size and quantity of the batteries. They burn brighter & longer than flashlights, but are also larger and weigh more. (Note: Due to the cold, they may not light at all in temperatures below 20 degrees.)
Back-packing or camp Lanterns (Liquid Fuel) – compact, collapsible & lightweight. Try to find one that uses kerosene (the safest fuel).
Kerosene (Hurricane) Lanterns – Perfect for home or outdoor use. They are an excellent source of light and will burn for about 45 hours on a quart of fuel. They burn bright and are inexpensive to operate. The main problem is failure to trim the wick correctly. Wicks should be trimmed in an arch, a “V” or “A” or straight across the top. Failing to properly trim the wick and maintain them results in smoke and poor light. To avoid a kerosene odor, light and extinguish a kerosene lantern outdoors. Light can be dimmed or brightened using the adjustable wick. Keep extra wicks and plenty of kerosene oil or lamp oil on hand.
Mantle Oil Lamps – For indoor use; They use kerosene or lamp oil.
Coleman Kerosene Lantern – For outdoor use -- safer and less expensive to operate than propane lanterns. They have a 5 1/2 hour burn time on one 32-ounce filling of kerosene. Puts out as much light as a 300 Watt electric light bulb. (Prices run $75 - $95).
Solar Lanterns – provide light on a full charge (8 hours of sunlight)
SAFETY: Always fill lanterns with fuel outside. Never use propane or white gas indoors. Never use car fuel. Read the instructions with your lantern to know where it may be safely used. Light all cooking, heating and lighting equipment preferably outdoors or by a window that is open several inches. Never use camping stoves or burning lights in a closed room.
7. Other Supplies
Fire Extinguishers – Having several ABC all purpose type fire extinguishers are essential, especially when alternative sources of heat and light are being used.
Carbon-Monoxide Detectors (Battery-operated) – Very important. Have at least two of these detectors in your home, especially near heating sources such as your water heater and wood stove or fireplace.
Smoke Detectors – Have at least 2 battery-operated smoke detectors in your home placed on each separate level of your home. Store extra batteries for them and check them twice a year.
Lamp or Lantern Fuel
Extra lamp & lighting supplies: Wicks, chimneys, matches, etc.
Emergency Road Flares – keep several on hand in your car.
Extra Fuses ( if your home has a fuse box)
Instructions and a crescent wrench – to safely turn of your gas, power and water if needed or directed to do so.
Communication
Communication is your contact with the outside world and is vitally important to you and your family’s safety during and after a disaster. During a developing emergency, keep a radio or TV on and await instructions. After disasters, the media serve as invaluable information centers for rumor control, announcements, etc. In time of disaster don’t believe and pass on rumors -- depend on the radio or TV for your information.
Radios
Ø **Battery-Powered Radio, AM/FM (with earplug or headphone) – important for info. & for morale; some can also pick up TV channels; Some available with 4-way power: solar power, alternate wind-up electric power; battery power & DC back-up power; Using headphones or earplug conserves battery power (by not having to power the speakers). Keep radio near the top of your 72 hour kit.
Ø **Extra Radio Batteries (alkaline)
Ø Weather Radio – Gives continuous weather info.
Ø Other: Car radio; 10-band short-wave radios (picks up broadcasts all over the world); Amateur or Ham Radio; Two-way Radios (range of up to 2 miles; help keep communication when family members are separated; no license required; runs on 3 AA batteries; 38 hrs of talk time); Walkie-talkies; CB Radio (portable, with car lighter adapter cord; Channel 19 is the emergency frequency; range 5-20 miles); Small battery powered TV (gives a much better visual understanding of the emergency at hand, however these TV’s will NOT work after Feb 2009 unless you have a digital portable TV. See attached article.); Portable Laptop; Cell phones with TV channels.
Maps
**Road Maps, Compass, & Community Maps (Get out of the phone book or from local Chamber of Commerce) – Mark location of potential hazards, evacuation routes, best walking routes to public emergency shelters, family meeting place, children’s schools, church, hospitals, fire and police departments, relatives and friends who live out of the area you could stay with after an evacuation; Make sure each family member is familiar with the map and important community locations.
**Family Disaster Action Plan – Have a predetermined action plan and an alternate plan to re-unite your family at a central location or meeting point in case family members are separated during an emergency. These points may be your own home (unless you are not allowed to go back to your home after a disaster), neighbors (such as with a fire), friends, relatives, Red Cross shelters, community or recreational centers, schools, parks, churches, etc. Go over the plan with your family. Make sure younger family members know how to get there. (Remember that messages can be left at some locations to help inform family members who arrive later.) Include important addresses and phone numbers (such as your out-of-area contact person) and recent photos of your family to help with locating missing persons. Decide how you will communicate with each other in an emergency. Keep a copy of this disaster plan in each person’s 72 hour kit, at work, and in the children’s school backpacks. Attach maps to the disaster plan. Also be sure that each person carries ID on them – wallet cards, dog tags, etc. with name, address & phone number.
Phones & Internet
Cell Phones – include recharger and a car cell phone charger (keep this in the car); Often during an emergency, cell phones get completely tied up but you can still get through on outgoing out-of-state calls. This is where the outside contact becomes very important. Also remember to include an “ICE” (In Case of Emergency) name & phone number on your cell phone under your “contact list” should you be injured and someone finds you. Don’t forget that texting will sometimes work even when phone calls can’t go through. (This was especially true during the recent earthquake in China).
Internet – Internet and email may be possible during an emergency as long as the phone lines are intact at both ends and power (or back-up battery power) continues to keep the computer running.
Pre-Paid Phone Cards –Hev in each 72 hour emergency kit. (Be sure there is no expiration date that the card must be used up by.)
Pay Phones – If you have no coins, you can get help by calling the toll-free numbers: 1-800-OPERATOR or 1-800-COLLECT; To have money wired, call 1-100-CASH.
**Out of Area Contact Person – Establish an out-of-area contact (at least 50 miles away) where family members can both leave and receive messages during or after an emergency. Family members can call this person and report their location and condition. Every family member should know this contact phone number by heart. Be sure to include these important phone numbers on the family Disaster Action Plan sheet described above. And, be sure to let relatives know you are safe after the emergency is over so they don’t come looking for you.
**Phone List - Complete an “Important Phone List” and keep copies in your car and emergency kits. (The list may include: 9-1-1, Fire, poison control, police, animal control, employer, attorney, bank, hospitals, cell phone numbers, doctors, church leaders, friends, close family, community emergency shelter, dentist, daycare center, disaster clean-up company, utility companies, e-mail addresses, employer, home-owner’s insurance agent, Highway Patrol, mechanic, mortgage company, neighbors, out-of-area contact people, pharmacy, plumber, road conditions, roadside help or towing service, schools, phone company, weather conditions/forecast, etc.) Also post emergency phone numbers by every phone in the house! Also keep a card with a list of family contact numbers in your wallet, purse, & children’s school backpacks. Remember that at an evacuation Center there may not be a phone book available and you might not be able to remember phone numbers when under stress.
Procedures for School Children
In an emergency, your children may be sheltered in place or evacuated from school. Do not go to the school. School personnel are trained to handle emergencies. Do not call your children’s school during the emergency – you may tie up lines need for emergency calls. Listen to the Emergency Broadcasts to know when and where to pick up your children.
Signaling Items
Emergency flares (can also double as a fire starter) – use for auto accidents or car problems
Signal Mirror (glass or metal)
Space blanket or emergency blankets – can also be used for signaling with their reflective surface.
Brass whistles with Lanyard – one per person, especially children; whistles carry much further than voices.
Car horn
Car mirror
Use oil under car hood burned in a hubcap to send up a miniature cloud which is visible for miles; Also, a burning tire makes a hot fire and lots of easy-to-see thick black smoke for 3-4 hours.
Remember: The #1 rule of surviving in the wilderness is to stay put. You are much better off spending the time preparing for an overnight or extended stay where you are. Your chance of being found, faster, is much improved if you are not on the move.
** = Very important!!
Goals for this month:
LIGHT: Obtain appropriate light sources for your home and emergency kit & cars (with extra batteries, fuel, lighting supplies, etc.). Also get carbon monoxide alarms & fire extinguishers as needed.
COMMUNICATION: Complete a Family Disaster Plan including maps, a list of important phone numbers, and a meeting place. Establish an out-of-area contact and let them know. Obtain needed communication & signaling devices (such as radios & whistles).
July 2008
Hi Preparedness Group,
Thank you to those who came to the classes today. We missed those who were on vacation this week!
Attached is the handout from our class today on Light & Communication.
Our new goals for this month are:
1. LIGHT: Obtain appropriate light sources for your home and emergency kit & cars (with extra batteries, fuel, lighting supplies, etc.). Also get carbon monoxide alarms & fire extinguishers as needed.
2. COMMUNICATION: Complete a Family Disaster Plan including maps, a list of important phone numbers, and a family meeting place. Establish an out-of-area contact and let them know. Obtain needed communication & signaling devices (such as radios & whistles).
Keep up the great work on your emergency kits.
Debbie
Thank you to those who came to the classes today. We missed those who were on vacation this week!
Attached is the handout from our class today on Light & Communication.
Our new goals for this month are:
1. LIGHT: Obtain appropriate light sources for your home and emergency kit & cars (with extra batteries, fuel, lighting supplies, etc.). Also get carbon monoxide alarms & fire extinguishers as needed.
2. COMMUNICATION: Complete a Family Disaster Plan including maps, a list of important phone numbers, and a family meeting place. Establish an out-of-area contact and let them know. Obtain needed communication & signaling devices (such as radios & whistles).
Keep up the great work on your emergency kits.
Debbie
First Aid and Medications
First-Aid & Medications
Having a working knowledge of basic first-aid treatment and light rescue skills is extremely important following a major disaster when hospitals are overloaded and emergency medical services may be delayed. Often, life or death is in the hands of the nearest person, which could be family members, friends or neighbors. Having a well-stocked first-aid kit as part of 72-hour kit supplies can help increase confidence and well-being during an emergency.
First aid is the immediate care you give to someone who is injured or who has become suddenly ill. It includes medical help, words or encouragement, showing willingness to help, and showing confidence through your competence.
Keep your first-aid skills up to date. All family members should know the basics: opening airways, CPR, mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, how to stop severe bleeding, how to treat choking, etc. Classes are offered through the Red Cross. A great way to teach your family is by incorporating 1st aid into your Family Home Evenings. (Using a first aid book or even the Boy Scout Book, Let the kids take a turn becoming an expert in an area and teach the family a new skill each week).
Having a working knowledge of basic first-aid treatment and light rescue skills is extremely important following a major disaster when hospitals are overloaded and emergency medical services may be delayed. Often, life or death is in the hands of the nearest person, which could be family members, friends or neighbors. Having a well-stocked first-aid kit as part of 72-hour kit supplies can help increase confidence and well-being during an emergency.
First aid is the immediate care you give to someone who is injured or who has become suddenly ill. It includes medical help, words or encouragement, showing willingness to help, and showing confidence through your competence.
Keep your first-aid skills up to date. All family members should know the basics: opening airways, CPR, mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, how to stop severe bleeding, how to treat choking, etc. Classes are offered through the Red Cross. A great way to teach your family is by incorporating 1st aid into your Family Home Evenings. (Using a first aid book or even the Boy Scout Book, Let the kids take a turn becoming an expert in an area and teach the family a new skill each week).
Also, don’t forget to keep up to date on Tetanus and booster shots.
Your First-Aid Kit
You can either put together your own first aid kit or purchase kits. I personally find it most economical to buy a good kit, go through it thoroughly, and buy any extra items that are lacking or that our family particularly needs.
Whether buying or assembling your own kits, be sure that you consider the following tips:
The kit should be appropriate to the place where it is going to be used. For example, keep a large, well-stocked first-aid kit in your home and smaller, portable kits in each car near your other 72 hour kits supplies. Every family member should have some very basic first-aid supplies in their individual 72-hour Emergency Kits (placed so that the First Aid Kit can be accessed very quickly).
Contents should be wrapped, sealed, etc. so that unused portions don’t become dirty when handled.
Fit the kit to specific family needs – such as supplies recommended by a doctor. Remember items for persons with special needs, such as diabetics, invalids, handicapped, elderly, infants and those with chronic illnesses.
Kits should be based on level of training of family members. Only include in your kit items you are familiar with and know how to use properly. As you receive more training, you can upgrade your kit.
Make sure all family members know where the medical supplies are kept and how to get to them quickly.
Rotate items that degrade over time, and keep your first-aid kit freshly stocked.
All liquids should be enclosed in a re-closable plastic bag, to contain any leakage that may occur from breakage or freezing.
Place in your kit a list of current medications for each family member, including dosage, and any allergies they may have. Also list style and serial numbers of medical devices (such as pacemakers). (Life-support systems should have an alternative power source readily available and in quantity to withstand the absence of electricity for an extended period of time. They should also be portable in case of an evacuation).
Include a list of doctors and relatives or friends so that they can be notified if an injury or illness occurs.
Priorities when Helping an Injured Person
Rescue the victim from life-threatening danger, if necessary.
Send someone to seek medical help, if the injury or illness is serious.
Restore or maintain breathing and heartbeat using mouth-to-mouth resuscitation or CPR (which is now recommended in most cases).
Control heavy bleeding by applying a clean compress and firm, direct pressure to the wound.
Treat poisoning as directed by the Poison Control Center. Save any container, and try to identify the poison before calling the center.
Prevent shock by helping the victim lie down and by maintaining body temperature.
Examine the victim for other injuries.
Seek medical help. Call 911, if not done previously. Arrange follow-up medical care.
Keep checking the victim’s breathing and pulse. Don’t leave until medical help arrives.
When to Call a Paramedic
Call 911 when a medical problem threatens a person’s life: Heart Attack symptoms (intense pressure, squeezing in center of chest, nausea), serious injury, uncontrolled bleeding, shock (fainting, unconsciousness, inappropriate behavior), spinal injuries, major burns, loss of consciousness, and breathing difficulties.
Should Death Occur
Call paramedic to verify presence or absence of vital life signs.
Call the doctor if the deceased was under the care of a physician.
Notify local police department for an official report of the death.
Select a mortician to make all the necessary additional arrangements.
In a large-scale disaster, many deaths may occur. The coroner advises that after taking a photo to document conditions, bodies should be wrapped in clean sheets or plastic and set in a cool place. Authorities should be notified as soon as possible.
First Aid Kit Supplies
(Fit the list to your family’s needs, type of kit, and your level of expertise; Make sure there is a label identifying your first-aid kit – such as with a red “cross”)
Consecrated Oil
Airway or Breathing Items
CPR Mask Recue breather with One-way Valve (clear, flexible barrier); also available as a pocket or key chain or single use CPR mask.
Plastic vomiting basin or several disposable “Airsick Bags” (from commercial airlines) or even gallon ziplock bags.
Sterile Bulb Aspirator (2-3 oz size) – to extract blood & secretions from back of throat & nostrils.
Supplies for Dressing Wounds
Adhesive Tape (1-3” widths) – lots of kinds available including hypoallergenic
Sterile Dressings (gauze in sealed paper packages) for dressing cuts, burns and lacerations, and as an aid to control bleeding – Sizes 2x2”, 4x4”, 6x6”
Burn-Free Sterile Dressings – soft, open-cell foam, saturated with a gel formula to cool.
Cotton Absorbent “Post-Op” Sponges for controlling bleeding & dressing cuts, burns & lacerations
Absorbent Cotton (1 oz rolled, boxed, sterile) – not for open flesh wounds
Cotton-tipped Applicators & cotton balls
Non-stick Pads (Assorted sizes) – for dressing wounds like burns; won’t stick to wound.
Maternity, Sanitary pads & even disposable diapers can double as a dressing to help stop serious bleeding and can also be useful to pad splints.
Steri-Strips (3M) – to close open wounds such as lacerations until wound can be stitched.
Butterfly Sutures – to hold edges of wounds together
Superglue
Universal Dressings (various sizes) – for controlling bleeding from severe or large wounds; also useful to pad splints.
Abdominal Pads (9x5”) to control serious bleeding from wounds
Elastic Knuckle Bandages & Fingertip Bandages
Patient Bite Sponges – for bleeding in mouth or teeth area
Gauze Self-adhering Roller Bandages (1”, 2”, 3” & 6” widths, 5-10 yds long; boxed, sterile) – to help cover wounds and hold dressings in place.
Elastic Bandages with Clips (2”,3” & 4” widths, such as Ace wraps) used as support for twists and sprains, and to help hold dressings in place
Flexible Conforming Gauze (various widths) – help cover wounds and hold dressings in place.
Plain Absorbent Gauze Pads (18x18” and 24x72”, folded smaller) – for covering and dressing large wounds
Eye Pads (oval-shaped, gauze covered cotton pads) – to cover injured eyes
Adhesive Dressings (Band-aids in various sizes) – for dressing small, minor cuts.
Tourniquet & Constriction Bands (rubber, Velcro, surgical tubing) – to control serious bleeding due to amputation injuries
Moleskin – for blister protection on hands and feet
Cleansing and Antiseptic Items
Hand Sanitizer
Antibacterial Soap Bar (small bar)
Alcohol Preparation Pads – for sanitizing skin (not for open wounds)
Betadine Preparation Pads – Antiseptic for minor wounds
Antibiotic Ointment
Moistened Towelettes – for cleaning hands, minor wounds
Antiseptic Solution
Small container of sterile liquid soap for cleaning wounds, such as Phisoderm
Rubbing Alcohol (70%) – General antiseptic for cleaning wounds, sterilizing, cooling the skin, sanitizing the skin surface for invasive procedures, treating poison ivy, etc. Also helps relieve minor muscular aches and pains due to overexertion or fatigue.
250 cc bottles of Sterile Water – for wound irrigation & cleansing & cooling burns
Normal Saline Solution in Plastic Bottle – for eyes
Hydrogen Peroxide – Helps prevent infection when used to cleanse minor cuts, clean burns, or abrasions.
Latex Sterile gloves (several pairs) – to prevent further contamination of wounds when caring for others and to help protect the care-giver from infectious diseases.
NOTE: Bandages can be made from a white undershirt, handkerchiefs, or other cotton clothing in an emergency where ready-made materials are not available; (Cotton balls slathered with Antibiotic Ointment in a ziplock bag can be used for wounds and double as fire starters)
Supplies for Splinting Fractures
Triangular Bandages (muslin) with safety pins – arm slings, bandaging, holding splints in place, etc.
Splints (for arms & legs) – padded boards, cardboard, plastic, inflatable, ladder, etc.
Sterile Tongue Blades – to check for sore throat and to splint broken fingers.
Cervical Collars: foam or plastic with Velcro (small, med. & large sizes) – to immobilize the neck.
NOTE: Splints can be made from pillows, boards, ski poles, umbrellas, or rolled up newspapers and magazines. They can be secured with belts. Crutches can be fashioned from forked sticks if nothing better is available.
Tools, Kits, and Protective Gear
Bandage scissors – for cutting bandages, moleskin, gauze, tape, etc.
EMT/Paramedic Snips – for cutting through heavy clothing, seat-belts, light metal, etc. during rescue.
Blood Pressure apparatus
Chemical Light Sticks – to light up area where first-aid or rescue is needed, especially around areas where explosive gas vapors may be present.
Cotton or Wool blankets – to cover first-aid victims
Dust or Filter Masks – to reduce spread of germs & decrease intake of dust during rescue operations.
Folded White Sheet – to cover injured victims, or to make slings, bandages, etc.
Gloves (heavy-duty leather)
Hearing Protectors (foam or silicone type) – for noise reduction
Heavy Rope – for rescue purposes
Mylar Emergency Blanket – to treat shock, and to cover injured individuals
Sterile Needle – Helps in treatment of blisters and in the removal of splinters.
Pillow
Plastic-strip or Digital Thermometer
Pocket Knife (multi-function) – useful in back-woods for improvising splinting materials
Razor blade (single edged)
Safety Flares – to warn oncoming traffic of accident or danger areas
Safety Goggles
Small flashlight or re-usable penlight with extra alkaline batteries
Snake Bite Kit
Splinter tweezers or forceps & small magnifying glass – for getting out splinters
Stethoscope – for checking heartbeat, and for use with blood-pressure apparatus
Tick Removal Kit
Matches
Medications
If possible, work with your doctor and your local pharmacy to obtain at least a 2 week supply of necessary medications to include in your portable first-aid kit or 72 hour kit in addition to your regular home supply. Any patient who depends on a regular medication should ask their doctor to write an extra prescription for an emergency supply. If necessary, it may be advisable to pay for the extra drugs out of pocket for the peace of mind. Keeping prescriptions at chain pharmacies (e.g. “Rite Aid”), may make it easier to get supplies if local pharmacies become limited. National chains keep their information in computer systems that can be accessed in other locations. It is important to ask doctors what steps to take in the event that you don’t have enough medication to last through an emergency. Stopping some medications suddenly can cause major problems. But some medications are alright if some doses are missed.
To build up your personal emergency supply, the American Red Cross suggests asking your doctor if it would be safe to go without one dosage periodically, until an adequate supply has been accumulated. For some medications, such as high cholesterol medications, during an emergency it may be possible to stretch medications out by skipping every other dose or cutting pills in half. But be sure to talk with your doctor and get this information before the emergency comes so that you know what is safe to do.
Be sure that all medicine containers are adequately labeled and that directions for use are kept with each of them. Keep a record of expiration dates, and replace your medications with a fresh supply when the expiration date is reached. Some drugs deteriorate with age and become either ineffective or unsafe to use. (If there is not an expiration date stamped on the bottle, talk to the pharmacist).
Your emergency kit should include a record of original prescriptions (or even a copy of the doctor’s prescription) and printed information on special care for a particular disease. Maintain portable electronic or paper copies of medical records and get a medical identification bracelet for any chronic condition or medication allergy. Patients should also learn what their options would be in the aftermath of any disaster, including where to turn for alternative care, and what to do if something such as flood waters or loss of refrigeration destroys a supply of medication. Each patient needs to think about what they would need to take in their car or in a backpack to properly manage their health if they had to leave their home for two weeks.
Prescription medications including insulin, oxygen, heart medication, high blood-pressure medication, asthma inhaler, etc. Obtain specific information from doctor or pharmacist on how long to store, how often to rotate, etc. If young children are around be sure there are child proof caps on medications.
Antibiotics – used only by those for whom it is prescribed
Pain Relievers – (tablet or liquid form) aspirin, ibuprofen & Tylenol in child & adult strengths.
Allergy Medications – Antihistamines (Tablet or liquid) – such as Benadryl, for congestion, allergic reactions, itching & restlessness; Calamine or Caladryl lotion for non-poisonous insect bites, stings, and skin rashes due to contact with allergy-producing materials such as poison ivy, poison oak, etc.; Epinephrine (adrenaline) Injection Kit for those who have history of severe allergic reactions (such as bee stings).
Cold & Cough Preparations, Cough drops or Throat Lozenges, & Decongestants (tablet, liquid or nasal spray); Homemade nasal decongestant: ¼ tsp salt in 8oz of water. Place 2 drops in each nostril 3 times per day.
Other Medications
Ammonia Inhalant Ampules (smelling salts) – for dizziness and fainting
Antacid Medications or Acid-blockers (tablet or liquid) & Pepto-Bismol Tablets
Anti-Diarrhea Medication (tablet or liquid)
Anti-Fungal Cream (for Athlete’s foot)
Vaginal Yeast Infection cream
Baking Soda in small container for 3rd degree burns and shock & for bee stings
Eye Drops
Eye wash and irrigant (sterile)
Insect Repellent (Baby oil can double as an insect repellent when none is available)
Insect Bite Solution (ointment or spray); (A drop of lemon juice applied to insect bites or stings instantly relieves the irritation)
Laxatives (tablet or liquid)
Medicine Dispensers (plastic spoons, medicine droppers, syringe or 1-oz cups)
Nausea Medication including motion-sickness medicine such as Drammamine.
Oral Electrolyte Solution
Sleep Aid – prescribed or over the counter to help you sleep in a crowded public shelter; also doubles as a decongestant and antihistamine.
Sugar Cubes (individually wrapped in plastic or restaurant sugar pkts) – for insulin shock
Table salt – for delayed treatment of shock & burns & heat cramps and fatigue and to make salt water to gargle with a store throat.
First Aid for Poisoning –
Syrup of Ipecac (2 oz)
activated Charcoal – to bind or absorb ingested poison (use only if advised by the Poison Control Center)
Skin Preparations
Triple-antibiotic Cream, Ointment, or Powder
Zinc Oxide
AloeVera Ointment or Cream – for minor skin injuries & burns
Chapstick
Diaper Ointment or Powder
Petroleum Jelly – protective skin ointment and lubricant
A&D Ointment – healing skin ointment
Hydrocortisone Cream (1.0 %) – relieves itching skin, rashes, and minor skin irritations
Hemorrhoidal Preparations
Medicated Antiseptic/Anesthetic Skin Spray
Sunburn Ointment, cream or Spray
Sunscreen Lotion – at least 45 SPF (the higher the SPF the stronger the protection)
Vaseline Intensive Care Lotion for dry skin
NOTE: To relieve a sunburn or diaper rash, add ¼ cup baking soda and ½ cup cornstarch to a warm (not hot) bath. Also, ½ tsp soda & 1 tsp salt in 1 qt of water replaces body fluids.
Miscellaneous Items
Contact Lenses (spare pair) and Solution
Eye Glasses (spare pair)
Denture supplies, Hearing-aid Batteries and wheel-chair batteries (spares)
Instant Chemical Disposable Cold Pack – for reducing swelling & pain & cooling burns
Instant Chemical Disposable Hot pack – increases blood circulation & helps reduce pain; also for treating hypothermia.
Rubber Ice Bag – to reduce swelling, for burns, and for relief of pain.
Rubber Hot Water Bottle – for pain, warmth, comfort, storing of water, & to put in cold sleeping bag for extra comfort & warmth)
Paper Drinking Cups – to give drinks and to cover eye injuries.
Safety Pins (various sizes)
Small Towel– for drying. Can also be for bandaging, dressing wounds, & controlling bleeding.
Nail clippers; Dental floss or heavy string
Paper towels, facial tissue, toilet tissues & plastic bags to discard used first aid wraps.
Written Materials
Critical Medical Histories
Copy of immunization records
First Aid Manual
Names, Phone numbers, & addresses of physicians, hospitals, paramedics, police and fire departments, poison control center, etc.
Small Notebook and Pencils – to record victim’s medical info. & to send messages
Choking first-aid instructions – on a small card, near top of kit
CPR & Resuscitation Instructions – on small card, near top of kit
GOALS FOR THIS MONTH
Obtain or assemble first aid kits to go with each person’s 72 hour kit as well as for each vehicle. Also upgrade your larger home First aid supplies (your largest kit) as needed.
Obtain a 2 week supply of needed medicines in your portable 72 hour or first aid kit and organize a method to rotate that medicine.
Make copies (or a record) of all prescriptions and a copy of your insurance card (front & back) and place in a ziplock bag in your portable 72 hour or first aid kit.
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